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Scooter Information
Bicycle or Scooter?
Some people prefer to run
their dogs with mountain bikes, especially competitive skijorers and people
with fast, hard pulling dogs such as Alaskan huskies and eurohounds. Skijorers
are used to moving both legs equally and feel at home with feet on pedals.
In fact, the proper way to scoot a scooter is similarly balanced. A knowledgeable
scooterer rhythmically changes legs. Kick three times on one side, then three
times on the other. Kick glide, kick glide, kick glide, change legs, etc. If
you are determinedly one legged/one sided, that works also.
Most people prefer scooters over bicycles. For one thing many dogs trot too
slowly for comfortable bike riding. Scooters are better at slow speed than
bicycles.
Scooters are safer for running dogs than bicycles because when riding a scooter
you are standing with your feet near the ground. When riding a bicycle you
have a bar between your legs. Your feet are on pedals. You are less able to
dismount quickly when the dog stops suddenly to pee, shake rainwater, sniff
or whatever.
Scooters are more durable and cheaper to repair than bicycles. You lay the
scooter on its side when hooking up the dog, stopping along the trail, or walking
forward to hold the dog's collar in a tricky situation. A little paint scratched
is all the damage there is. Should the dog suddenly take off after a squirrel,
deer, or beaver, the scooter bounces along behind the dog. The handle bar may
spin around enough to loosen the brake cables, but repairs needed are minimal.
Should the dog take off dragging a bicycle, repairs can include repairing damage
to derailleur, chain, and pedals as well as the spinning handlebar and brake
cables.
Scooters are cheaper than bicycles. Better to have your scooter banged up
than your mountain bike. Once your dog is trained you may be totally hooked
on the scooter. On the other hand, once the dog is trained, a bicycle is less
unsafe and there are good reasons to use a bicycle. If the dog really wants
to go fast, you can easily take the load off him by pedaling and thereby go
even faster. And with gear shifting hills are easy to power up. It is easier
to carry gear on a bicycle than on a scooter.
Site owner, Daphne Lewis, enjoys all three vehicles: scooter, sulky, and
mountain bike. On scary terrain with steep hills, trees and switch backs, no
question, I prefer my Diggler Alpha Dawg with 16 inch rear wheel (and
fenders!). I can plant my feet on the long platform and be firmly part of the
scooter as we blast down the hill. When I had my old, slow rottweiler,
I had to use a scooter. Bikes are no fun at slow speeds. Now that I have a
young, fast chinook, I enjoy both scooter and bike. On power line trails with
alternating pavement and dirt tracks with rocks and rabbits, the mountain bike
is a blast. I love being able to shift gears and help the dogs go faster by
pedaling. I love the sulky for tamer trails, urban adventures, photographing
my scooter friends, and any trail wide enough for the sulky to go through.
I like the freedom to choose the vehicle depending on the terrain and on my
training goals for the day.
How To Choose Your Scooter?
If you mostly scoot at a trot around the city and weigh less than 150 pounds,
then the charming, folding micro with 12 inch wheels will please you. If you
weigh under 150 pounds and want an introductory scooter, the Torker scooter
is nimble, light weight, and versatile. If you are an average sized man and
have a dog who lopes as well as trots, the Willy is a high quality scooter with
20 inch, quick release wheels. The Willy is fast, has excellent brakes and comes
with fenders. It is suited for logging roads, dirt and gravel, lawns, and of
course pavement. If your dogs are fit, fast, and determined, you need to control
them with powerful brakes, shock absorbers and platform length to spread your
feet. Choose the Alpha Dawg, DSK, Full Suspension or the Blauwerk Downhill.
If you want to ride with your child in front of you, choose one of the Digglers
with their long, wide platform, heavy duty frame and components, and big handlebars.
The Full Suspension Diggler with its shock absorbers handles uneven ground,
galloping speeds, and large riders with aplomb.
See comments below |
Price |
Max Wt |
Max dogs
(pet)
(sled) |
Max speed |
Terrain |
Wheel |
Platform |
Ground
Clear-ance |
Wt.
sc'ter |
Ht. hand-
lebars |
Brakes |
Shocks |
|
Micro (Folds) |
$249 |
Adult |
1
0 |
10 mph |
pavement,
warehouse |
12 in. |
5 1/4 x 15 in. |
3.5 in. |
15 lbs |
38-41 |
front only |
no |
| Torker |
$120 |
150 lbs |
2
1 |
13 mph |
dirt trails,
gravel |
16 in.
nylon |
4 7/8 x 14 1/4 |
4.5 in. |
22 lbs |
36 in. |
U brakes |
no |
Torker w/stem riser |
$136 |
150 lbs |
2
1 |
13 mph |
dirt trails,
gravel |
16 in.
nylon |
4 7/8 x 14 1/4 |
4.5 in. |
22 lbs |
42 in . |
U brakes |
no |
Dirt Dawg Diggler |
$175 |
180 lbs |
3
1 |
16 mph |
dirt trails,
gravel |
16 in.
alloy |
6 1/2 x 20 in
flat: 13 1/2 |
5 in. |
26.5 lbs |
38 in. |
V brakes |
yes |
|
Dirt dawg + large handlebar |
$200 |
180 lbs |
3
1 |
16 mph |
dirt trails,
gravel |
16 in.
alloy |
6 1/2 x 20 in
flat: 13 1/2 |
5 in. |
26.5 lbs |
42 in. |
V brakes |
yes |
|
Willy (Fenders) |
$299 |
250 lbs |
3
1 |
18 mph |
No roots |
20 in. quick release;
street tires |
6 x 14 in. |
3.5 in. |
23 lbs |
38-41in . |
V brakes |
no |
|
Alpha Dawg Diggler (Aluminum) |
$450 |
350 lbs |
4
2 |
22 mph |
tight turns ,
switchbacks |
20"x2.35"
front,
16 or 20"x2.35"
back |
6 3/4 " x 25"
total length
flat part: 17" |
front
6 3/4"
rear 5 1/2"
. |
29.5 lbs
20/16 |
43.5" |
V brakes |
yes
Grind alum-inum
in front |
|
DSK Diggler (Aluminum) |
$550 |
350 lbs |
4
2 |
22 mph |
mountain trails |
20 in. quick release;
nobby tires |
6 1/2 " x 25 1/2"
flat: 16" |
front
6 1/2"
rear 5 1/2" |
29 lbs |
42 in. |
Disc brakes |
yes
Grind alum-inum
in front |
|
Full Suspension Diggler |
$750 |
350 lbs |
4
2,3 |
25 mph |
mountain trails |
20 in. quick release;
nobby tires |
6 1/2 " x 25 1/2"
flat: 16" |
|
|
|
Disc brakes |
yes
Grind
front & back |
| Downhill |
$550 |
350 |
4
2,3 |
25 mph |
back country,
meadows |
26"alum.
quick release,
nobby tires |
6 in. x ? |
7 in. |
30 lbs |
> 41 in |
V brakes |
yes |
1. Price is for unassembled scooter in box as shipped. Add approximately
$30 for assembly by your local bike store.
2. Weights that scooters can carry are approximate. In each case I know
of heavier people riding than the listed max weight.
3. Maximum number of dogs is an estimate and will vary depending on
the power of the individual dogs, their level of training and obedience and
your weight and athleticism. If your dogs are very fast, you will want shock
absorbers. I have ridden a mountain diggler with two working sled dogs wishing
that I had gloves and a helmet on and imagining what it is like to hit the
pavement at sprint dog speed. On the other hand I used to take four house dogs
out on my thrift store little scooter and felt totally safe.
4. Maximum speed (ie. maximum safe speed) is an approximte number. Higher
speeds are more comfortable on smooth terrain than on rough and on straight
trails than switch backs.
5. Dog scootering allows you to run your dog on a variety of terrain:
pavement, crushed rock, hard (wet) sand beaches, dirt, bark, lawn, pasture
and meadow.
6. More expensive scooters have better hubs. Better hubs roll more easily
than cheaper ones.
7. Many scooterers prefer wide foot platforms so they can ride with
feet side by side. Other scooterers prefer narrow platforms because kicking
is easier. Some scooters place one foot at the head of the platform and place
the other slightly behind with the ball of the foot tucked into the arch of
the forward foot. If you alternate feet every third kick as you scoot (which
is proper form), the narrow platform is easier.
8. Generally speaking higher ground clearance means better ability to
go over rough ground. A shorter scooter with the same ground clearance will
clear more roots than a longer one.
9. Light weight is a plus with one dog. Heavy weight is a plus with
multiple dogs. Dogs can pull any empty scooter easily when chasing a deer or
squirrel. What really counts is your weight whether standing on the scooter
with brakes locked or on the ground holding the scooter and yelling WHOA DAMMIT.
With dogs that are crazy to run, train them that they do not get to go until
they stand quietly.
How Do I Put My Scooter Together?
Scooters are shipped
partially assembled. Back wheels and back brakes are assembled. Handlebars,
front wheels, and front brakes are loose in the box. Shipping this way keeps
the box small enough for UPS. Most scooters do NOT have assembly instructions
in the box because scooter manufacturers for liability reasons prefer to have
bicycle mechanics assemble their scooters. Bicycle mechanics do not need instructions.
The Diggler scooters do come with instructions, however. If you know how to
adjust brakes and work on bicycles, then you can assemble the scooter yourself.
Otherwise take it to a bike store.
Flat tires from blackberry thorns and the like are no fun. Ask the bike store
to put in something to reduce flats. Different stores recommend different products.
Go with the local preference.
The stem extension that can be purchased with the Torker scooter to raise
the handlebars requires a 6 inch allen wrench for tightening. The wrench has
to go down the inside of the tube and reach the screw at the bottom.
My local bike store charges $30 to assemble a scooter. Calculate your cost
as price of scooter plus shipping plus cost of assembling.
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